Kinect Sensor Mount
Contents |
Author
Marc Killpack (http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~mkillpack3), Advisor: Prof. Charlie Kemp
Use
After some basic steps to disassemble the base of the Kinect, we can use the mount described here to attach the Kinect sensor to a robot or other fixture (see examples below from HRL). If the intended purpose is for static use, there is a shaft that allows you to orient the Kinect plus or minus 30 degrees. If the purpose is to attach the Kinect to a moving part/robot, then we recommend the use of the supports as seen below in the instructions. We developed this as an alternative to having to open up the actual sensor casing and use its screw holes.
Making the Kinect Mount
We used a 3D printer to make our mount out of ABS plastic. The same parts could be machined out of metal if desired but would likely require some modifications to the tolerances and the thicknesses of some parts. The following sections list the necessary parts and explain the basic assembly of the mount from start to finish.
Solid Works Files
The main solid works files necessary for the mount are as follows:
The following files are examples of how we have modified the original to work for our robots:
- pr2_top, pr2_base, cody_top_side_mount, cody_base_side_mount, cody_top_under_mount, cody_base_under_mount, playpen_base
Steps to Disassemble Kinect Base and Attach New Mount
- Steps for Mounting Kinect
Necessary tools for the job: size T0 bit, small philips and flat screwdriver, larger screwdriver for the T0 bit, heavy duty shears, needle nose pliers. You may also want a size M4 and M3 tap for threading the plastic mount.
Holder place for how to thread the top and bottom of 3D printed mount (After printing the mount, it is helpful to assemble the top and bottom pieces and thread them with an M4 size tap. If you are using the supports for a more rigid mount, make sure to thread the holes in the top plate and the supports at the same time with an M3 tap).
Remove the sticky pad underneath the Kinect base.
Remove 4 screws using a T0 bit in the big screwdriver.
Using small philips screwdriver remove 4 more screws.
Carefully turning over the bottom metal plate shows the motor for the base, disconnect this.
Cut a V shape hole through the plate closest to the sensor head with the heavy duty shears. Be very careful of the cameras at this point since this is the most likely spot to damage the Kinect.
Shows the completed V shape cutout
This should allow you to turn the top plate 90 degrees and slide it out now
Try to loosen the two screws on either side with the small philips screwdriver. Don't worry if the screws get stripped at this point as there is another way to remove this part.
This shows the other way to loosen the metal encasing. Use a the small flat head or other similar tool to wedge underneath the metal encasing until you can grab it with the needle nose pliers.
Bend the encasing back and forth with the needle nose pliers to fatigue it. Doing this at both sides causes the encasing to fracture at the two screw heads.
You should now be able to remove the collar piece with only the stem and Kinect sensor remaining. It is probably wise to use some electrical tape on the two power cables coming down from the stem. You should also remove the final gear from the stem and keep the screw that held it in place.
The top_piece can now be slid into place over the stem.
Now turn the top 90 degrees, making sure the slot is facing towards the back of the sensor.
Attach the shaft piece using the small philips screwdriver with the screw that held the original gear in place.
(Wrong picture here) Attach a layer of double sided tape (any padding around 2-3 mm will do) to the supports leaving the paper on the side that is towards the kinect. This allows us to slide the supports into place and get a firm fit before attaching them to the top piece using M3 X 10 screws.
Assemble the top and bottom of the plastic mount. Make sure to get the Kinect cable inside properly to relieve strain. Then attach M4 screws to keep the case shut and the shaft and crank in place.
holder place for other images from solid works
Power
We didn't want to cause problems with the USB cable, so we cut the power cord below the split to USB and the Kinect connector. Being careful to verify polarity, we hooked the Kinect up to a 12V power supply that is loosely regulated and we have had no issues so far.
