Kinect Sensor Mount
Contents |
Author
Marc Killpack, Advisor: Prof. Charlie Kemp
Use
After some basic steps to disassemble the Kinect base, this mount allows you to attach Kinect sensor to a robot or other fixture (see examples below from HRL). If the intended purpose is for static use, there is a shaft that allows you to orient the Kinect plus or minus 30 degrees. If the purpose is to attach the Kinect to a moving part/robot, then we recommend the use of the supports as seen below in the instructions.
Solid Works Files
- The solidworks CAD file (utm-servo-bracket.sldprt, utm-servo-bracket.igs). This requires Solidworks 2009.
Making the Kinect Mount
We used a 3D printer to make our mount out of ABS plastic. The same parts could be machined out of metal if desired but would likely require some modifications to the tolerances and the thicknesses of some parts. After printing the mount, it is helpful to assemble the top and bottom pieces and thread them with an M4 size bit. If you are using the supports for a more rigid mount, make sure to thread the holes in the top plate and the supports at the same time.
Steps to Disassemble Kinect Base and Attach New Mount
- Steps for Mounting Kinect
Necessary tools for the job: size T0 bit, small philips and flat screwdriver, larger screwdriver for the T0 bit, heavy duty shears, needle nose pliers
First remove the sticky pad underneath the Kinect base
Remove 4 screws using a T0 bit in the big screwdriver
Using small philips screwdriver remove 4 more screws
Carefully turning over the bottom metal plate shows the motor for the base, disconnect this
Cut a V shape hole through the plate closest to the sensor head with the heavy duty shears. Be very careful of the cameras at this point since this is probably the most likely spot to damage the Kinect.
Shows the completed V shape cutout
This should allow you to turn the top plate 90 degrees and slide it out now
Try to loosen the two screws on either side with the small philips screwdriver. Don't worry if the screws get stripped at this point as there is another way to remove this part.
This shows the other way to loosen the metal encasing. Use a the small flat head or other similar tool to wedge underneath the metal encasing until you can grab it with the needle nose pliers.
Bend the encasing back and forth with the needle nose pliers to fatigue it. Doing this at both sides causes the encasing to fracture at the two screw heads.
You should now be able to remove the collar piece with only the stem and Kinect sensor remaining. It is probably wise to use some electrical tape on the two power cables coming down from the stem. You should also remove the final gear from the stem and keep the screw that held it in place.
The top piece (utm-servo-bracket.sldprt) can now be slid into place over the stem.
Now turn the top 90 degrees, making sure the slot is facing towards the back of the sensor.
Attach the shaft piece now ((utm-servo-bracket.sldprt) and use the small philips screwdriver with the original screw that held the
Power
We didn't want to cause problems with the USB cabling, so we cut the power cord below the split to USB and the Kinect connector. Being careful to verify polarity, we hooked the Kinect up to a 12V power supply that is loosely regulated and we have had no issues so far.
Code
- You will need the following ROS packages from our public ROS repository (available at http://code.google.com/p/gt-ros-pkg/wiki/hrl_content_summary)
- [1]
